Traveling to Kyushu offers families a unique blend of nature, history, and culinary adventures that you simply cannot find anywhere else in the world. While ramen and udon are staple favorites for children, adventurous families often look for something a bit more memorable. Enter Yobuko, a charming fishing port in Saga Prefecture, famous for one specific thing: Ikezukuri (live squid sashimi).
For parents, the idea of eating “live” food might seem daunting to navigate with children. Will they be scared? Is it safe? Is there anything else to eat if they refuse the squid? This guide explores the fascinating, slightly wild, and incredibly delicious experience of eating fresh squid in Yobuko, ensuring you have all the tips needed for a smooth family lunch.
If you are looking to explore more of this underrated prefecture, we highly recommend reading our comprehensive pillar guide: The Ultimate Family-Friendly Guide to Saga with Kids: Low Stress, High Adventure.
What is Yobuko Squid (Ikezukuri)?
Yobuko (part of Karatsu City) is one of the most famous squid fishing ports in Japan. The specialty here is Ikezukuri, which translates roughly to “prepared alive.”
In a standard sushi restaurant, squid (ika) is often white and somewhat rubbery. In Yobuko, the squid is taken from a tank moments before it is served. Because it is so fresh, the flesh is completely transparent—like glass—and has a crunchy, firm texture with a sweet aftertaste.
The most striking (and sometimes shocking) part for kids is that the squid is often still moving when it arrives at the table. The tentacles may wiggle, and the chromatophores (pigment cells) on the skin can be seen flashing red and brown. It is a biology lesson and a culinary experience rolled into one.
Is This Experience Kid-Friendly?
You might be wondering if taking a 5-year-old to see their lunch moving is a good idea. The answer depends on your child, but generally, it is a fantastic family experience for a few reasons:
- Visual Impact: It is something they will never forget. Watching the squid change colors is fascinating for curious minds.
- The “Safety Net” (Tempura): This is the most important point for parents. You only eat the body of the squid as sashimi. Once you are finished with the raw portion, the restaurant takes the remaining head and tentacles back to the kitchen and deep-fries them into tempura.
- Sweet Taste: Fresh squid lacks the “fishy” smell that turns many kids off seafood. It is surprisingly sweet.
Even if your children refuse to touch the raw, transparent slices, they will almost certainly devour the freshly fried squid tempura with rice and salt. It is widely considered some of the best calamari in the world.
The Yobuko Morning Market (Asaichi)
Before you sit down for lunch, you should explore the Yobuko Morning Market. It is known as one of Japan’s three biggest morning markets (along with Wajima and Takayama).
The market runs daily from roughly 7:30 AM to 12:00 PM along a dedicated street by the harbor. For families, this is a low-stress stroll where you can see the local culture up close.
What to Look For:
- Spinning Squid: You will see machines rapidly spinning drying squids in circles. It looks like a fairground ride for seafood, and toddlers find it mesmerizing.
- Squid Dumplings (Ika Shumai): These are fluffy, steamed dumplings made of squid paste. They are soft, mild, and perfect for toddlers who can’t chew tough textures yet.
- Dried Snacks: Plenty of vendors sell dried fish and squid snacks that make for great souvenirs or car snacks.
The Dining Experience: What to Expect
There are several large restaurants in Yobuko, such as Kawataro or Manbo, that are built specifically for large groups and families. Some are even “floating” restaurants where you dine on the water, looking down into the sea or tanks.
1. The Tanks
When you enter, you will likely be greeted by massive tanks filled with swimming squid. This is usually the highlight for the kids. You can lift them up to watch the squid jetting around the water. It builds anticipation and helps connect the food to the source.
2. Ordering
You generally order a “set course” (teishoku). This usually includes:
- The live squid (shared among the table).
- Rice and Miso soup.
- Ika Shumai (Squid dumpling).
- Pickles and sometimes a small dessert.
3. The Sashimi Phase
The platter arrives. This is the moment of truth. The staff will explain that you should dip the transparent strips in soy sauce (sometimes mixed with ginger or wasabi).
- Parent Tip: If your child is hesitant, demonstrate how crunchy and sweet it is. If they are scared of the moving eyes or tentacles, you can cover that part of the plate with a napkin or lettuce leaf.
4. The Tempura Phase
Once the sashimi is gone, the staff will come to collect the plate. In about 10 to 15 minutes, they return with a mountain of piping hot, crispy tempura. This is usually the part where the kids start eating in earnest. The batter is light, and the squid is incredibly tender—not rubbery at all.
Getting to Yobuko: Logistics for Families
Yobuko is located on the northern coast of Saga Prefecture. It is a bit isolated, which preserves its charm but requires some planning to reach.
By Car (Highly Recommended)
Driving is by far the easiest way to visit Yobuko with a family. It gives you the freedom to stop at the stunning views along the Genkai Sea or visit the nearby Nagoya Castle Ruins Museum. From Fukuoka City, the drive takes about 60 to 90 minutes via the Maebara Road and local highways.
If you are staying in Fukuoka and debating whether to rent a vehicle for this excursion, please read our guide: Do You Need a Rental Car for a Family Trip to Fukuoka?. It breaks down the pros and cons of driving in Kyushu.
By Public Transport
It is possible but takes time and requires transfers.
- Take the JR Chikuhi Line from Hakata or Tenjin to Nishi-Karatsu Station.
- From Nishi-Karatsu, take a bus (Showa Bus) headed for Yobuko. The bus ride takes about 30 minutes.
- The bus drops you off near the morning market area.
Note that carrying a stroller on the bus can be cumbersome during weekends when tourists flock to the market.
Expanding Your Trip
A trip to Yobuko rarely takes a full day. Most families finish the market and lunch by 1:00 PM. Here is how you can fill the rest of your day in the Saga/Karatsu area:
- Karatsu Castle: A beautiful “castle in the sky” overlooking the ocean. There are many stairs, but there is also an elevator that helps with small children.
- Niji no Matsubara: Drive through this ancient pine forest stretching along the coast.
- Hado Misaki (Cape Hado): Located nearby, this cape features an underwater observation tower where you can go downstairs into the sea to watch wild fish swimming through windows. It acts like a natural aquarium and is a huge hit with kids.
If you are trying to figure out how to fit a day trip to Saga into your broader Kyushu vacation, check out our planning resources: Kyushu Family Itineraries: The Complete Guide to Planning Your 3 to 7-Day Trip.
Conclusion
Eating live squid in Yobuko is more than just lunch; it is a cultural adventure. It teaches children about freshness, local industry, and trying new things. Even if the “dancing” seafood is a bit too wild for your little ones, the morning market atmosphere and the delicious tempura ensure that no one leaves hungry or disappointed.
While Fukuoka has amazing dining options—as detailed in Family-Friendly Food in Fukuoka: Where to Eat Comfortably with Kids—making the drive out to Saga for this specific delicacy is a memory your family will talk about for years to come.