When planning a family trip to Kyushu, one name comes up repeatedly in conversations among Japanese parents: Suginoi Hotel. Located in Beppu, the hot spring capital of Japan, this isn’t just a place to sleep—it is a destination in itself. For international travelers, it can be a bit of a culture shock in the best possible way: a massive, bustling, fun-filled resort that combines traditional hot spring culture with the energy of a theme park.
If you are exploring the region using our The Ultimate Guide to Oita with Kids: Hot Springs, Sanrio Characters, and Safari Adventures, you might be wondering if Suginoi is worth the splurge and the crowds. After all, Beppu has hundreds of ryokans and hotels.
In this review, we dive deep into the Suginoi experience to help you decide if it’s the right base for your family adventure in Oita.
The Vibe: A Festive “Onsen Theme Park”
Suginoi Hotel is not an intimate, quiet ryokan. It is a massive complex spread across several buildings (Hana, Naka, and the newer Sora and Amanek wings) perched on a hill overlooking Beppu Bay. The atmosphere is undeniably festive. From the moment you arrive, you are swept up in a vacation energy that is contagious.
For families with children, this removes a lot of the stress often associated with travel in Japan. You don’t need to worry about your kids being too loud in the lobby or making a mess at dinner. Everyone here is focused on having fun. The hotel caters specifically to multi-generational groups, making it incredibly welcoming for toddlers, elementary schoolers, and grandparents alike.
The Aqua Garden: Hot Springs with Swimsuits
For many international families, the traditional Japanese onsen (hot spring) experience can be daunting because it requires nudity and separation by gender. This means dads can’t hang out with daughters, and moms can’t help sons.
This is where Suginoi Hotel shines. The Aqua Garden is an outdoor hot spring facility where swimsuits are required. This allows the whole family to soak, swim, and play together in warm thermal water while enjoying stunning panoramic views of the steam rising from Beppu city and the ocean beyond.
The Aqua Garden isn’t just a pool; it features water jets, floating areas, and a spectacular fountain show at night involving lights, lasers, and music. It creates a magical memory for children who can experience Japanese bathing culture in a way that feels comfortable and familiar.
Tanayu: The Famous Open-Air Bath
While the Aqua Garden is for play, Tanayu is for relaxation. Located right next to the Aqua Garden, this is a traditional (naked, gender-separated) onsen complex. It is famous throughout Japan for its tiered, terraced outdoor baths that create an infinity-pool effect merging with Beppu Bay.
If you are following our 7-Day Kyushu Family Itinerary: Fukuoka, Beppu, and Kumamoto by Train, a soak in Tanayu is the perfect way to recharge after a long train journey or a day exploring the “Hells of Beppu.”
For parents, watching the sunrise from Tanayu while the rest of the family sleeps is a highlight of the trip. The facilities are spacious, and they provide baby baths and chairs, making it accessible even if you are traveling with an infant.
The Buffet Experience: A Feast for All Ages
Dining at Suginoi is an event. The hotel features massive buffet restaurants (Seeds, Ceada, and the newer Terrace & Dining SORA) that offer an overwhelming variety of food.
We aren’t talking about standard hotel trays of lukewarm food. These are live kitchen stadiums. You can watch chefs grill steaks, slice fresh sashimi, fry tempura, and prepare sushi right in front of you. There are dedicated sections for Japanese cuisine, Western favorites, and Chinese dishes.
For the kids:
- Cotton Candy Machines: Kids can make their own.
- Chocolate Fountains: A perennial favorite.
- Kid-Height Buffets: In some sections, food is placed lower so children can serve themselves (empowering them to make choices).
- Baby Food: The restaurants often provide pre-packaged baby food for infants, a lifesaver for parents.
The noise level is high, which is actually a blessing. If your toddler has a meltdown or your child spills their juice, it barely registers against the hum of happy diners. It is stress-free dining at its finest.
Entertainment: Bowling, Games, and Lights
If it rains during your stay in Beppu, Suginoi has you covered. The complex includes a bowling alley and a large game center filled with claw machines and arcade games. There is also a kids’ play area for younger children to burn off energy.
One of the unique features of Suginoi is the extensive illumination displays. The grounds are decorated with millions of LED lights, creating tunnels of light and animal figures. Families often take a post-dinner stroll through the illuminations in their yukata (cotton robes provided by the hotel), taking photos and enjoying the cool evening air.
Which Building Should You Choose?
Because the hotel is so large, choosing a room can be confusing.
- Sora Building: The newest and most luxurious. The rooms are modern, spacious, and offer the best views. It has its own exclusive dining venue.
- Hana Building: The standard choice for families. It is convenient for accessing the main buffet and the Aqua Garden.
- Naka Building: Generally the most budget-friendly, but requires a bit more walking or shuttle usage to get to the main baths.
Note that the complex is huge. You will likely need to take the internal shuttle buses to get from your room to the hot springs or the bowling alley. For families with strollers, this adds a layer of logistics, but the buses run constantly.
Getting There and Logistics
Suginoi Hotel offers a free shuttle bus from Beppu Station, which runs regularly throughout the day. This makes it very accessible for families traveling by train.
If you are driving, there is ample parking, though the lots can fill up quickly on weekends. If you are unsure about whether to drive or take the train for your Kyushu trip, check out our guide on Do You Need a Rental Car for a Family Trip to Fukuoka? (which covers driving considerations for the broader region).
Practical Tips for Parents
- Book Early: Suginoi is incredibly popular with domestic tourists. Weekends and holidays book out months in advance.
- Swimsuits: Don’t forget to pack swimsuits for the Aqua Garden. You can rent them, but they are “school style” and not very fashionable.
- Strollers: You can use strollers throughout the complex, but be prepared to fold them up when boarding the internal shuttle buses.
- Check-in: The lobby can get chaotic around 3:00 PM. If possible, arrive a bit early to complete the paperwork, or be prepared for a queue.
- Itinerary Planning: To see how Suginoi fits into a broader trip, refer to Kyushu Family Itineraries: The Complete Guide to Planning Your 3 to 7-Day Trip.
Final Verdict
Is Suginoi Hotel the “best” family hotel in Japan? It depends on what you are looking for. If you want quiet zen and personalized service, this is not it. But if you want a place where your kids will be entertained for hours, where you can swim together in a hot spring, eat until you are stuffed, and sleep in comfort, it is unbeatable.
It captures the essence of a fun Japanese family vacation. For many children, the stay at Suginoi becomes the highlight of their trip to Kyushu, rivaling even the monkeys and the safari park.